2002tii Alternator Testing Tips

After removing my alternator for bushing replacement, I took it to (2) places before I was able to have it tested. The newest computerized charging system tester stations do not list this car in their database. Some places don’t have the correct connector. I first took my original 73 unit to a local Pep Boys service center. They had a fancy new machine that didn’t have the older BMW’s listed. The second place was an Advanced Auto Parts store.

They had a slightly older tester that was used on my alternator – but they claimed the output was too low under load. I neglected to ask “how bad is it”. They also tried to sell me the standard top mount non-tii remanufactured unit!. I finally ended up in a very old Auto/Marine Electric shop very close to my workplace. They tested the alternator and said it worked fine but the bearings were going bad. I decided to order a Bosch AL-40X (still on backorder). After waiting 4 weeks! – my new alternator arrived. It even came with a new black pulley/fan and resistor! Notes regarding the red urethane bushings sold by several companies: They are too thick and the stock washer will not fit under the circlip. Trim the leading edges before installing them. Last update: 2009-06-24 19:01 Author: Jim Gerock

Removing a Tii alternator

Easy removal of the Tii alternator

When removing the tii alternator from the bottom, disconnect the sway bar end links and remove the (4) hold down bolts to move the bar forward enough to allow the alternator (with pulley) to drop out of the engine compartment. Also, if you remove the (4) bolts that hold the radiator to the bulkhead – then shift it over about 1″ toward the passenger side, the long pivot bolt can be removed from the upper alternator mount (without draining the coolant!). I must admit, replacing the v-belt is tough; it is VERY tight between the fan and radiator.

Last update: 2007-04-13 18:52

Author: Jim Gerock