Tii Fuel Pump Repairs

Q. Do you guys know where i can buy just the tear drop shaped seal that goes in the fuel pump where the screen is?
Thanks,Zac?

A. Zac,

Originally, BMW buys this part as a complete assembly from BOSCH and does not provide seperate repair or replaceable components of the pump.

After some discussion and past pondering over the same question as you, we would recommend you look in your phone book for a Certified Bosch Repair service company near you and see if they can provide you with the part you need.

Alternatively, Mesa Performance in the San Diego, California area is selling reconditioned pumps with core charge of $40 if you don’t have a pump to swap out.

Mesa Performance Website

Last update: 2007-01-06 01:09
Author: tiiregister

Kugelfisher Pump Rebuilders

Q. Would someone please recommend a reliable source for rebuilt pump and injectors for the tii?

A. The following are well known pump re-builders in the USA.

Jerry Fairchild Industries
5242 Westside Road
Redding, CA
530 241-1592
Contact: Robert Fairchild

H & R Fuel Injection
1648 C Locust Avenue
Bohemia, NY 11716
516 589-1600
Contact: Hans Utke

Mashinter Research Center
414 9th Street
Rockford, IL 61108
815 226-3422
Contact: Bill Mashinter

Pacific Fuel Injection
153 Utah Avenue, #B
South San Francisco, CA
650 588-8880
Contact:  Gus Pfister

Precision Automotive Research
901 Hillside Drive
Bensenville, IL 60106
630 766-4402
Contact: David M. Redszus

Ingram Enterprises, Inc.
15613 Peterson Road, Bldg C
Burlington, WA 98233
360.707.5701
www.wesingram.com
Contact: Wes Ingram

Last updated: 2/20/2010

Kugelfisher Injection Pump Technical Operations and History

Orignal article by: Jeff Mulchahey

It strikes me that some confusion exists over exactly which Kugelfischer mechanical injection pumps were used on which models of cars and in which market.

First, the 2 liter engine with mechanical fuel injection vas used in several cars which we really newer saw in this country.

Aside from the ’02 series, what we know as the tii motor BMW also used in the older 2000 sedan and the first 5-series body.

Here is a partial breakdown on which cars used which pump, excluding limited rarities such as Alpina, racing, or Turbo derivatives.

Model 			Pump Designation  	Kugelfischer Number
1969-71 2000tii  	PL04-124.01A-1 & A- 2 	92 004 010
1971 2000tii and  	PL04-124.01 B-1 or 	92 004 011
1972- 73 2002tii 	PL04-124.01 C-1  	92 004 012
1974 2002tii(USA) 	PL04-124.02 A-1  	92 004 020

The early cars utilized a slightly different throttle linkage arrangement which lead to the A-series pumps not being interchangeable with the B-series or later pumps. The later (i.e. 1974) USA market cars utilized a pump (124.02) which contained a different fuel delivery cam (see below). Interestingly, my 1976 hard copy parts books shows that the early European and USA cars used the same pump 13 51 1 256 536 (BMW number, new parts only are listed here-not AT or Yl numbers) which is superseded to 13 51 1 259 887. This 887 pump is listed for European only models while the later ’74 USA cars used the unique number 1351 1 259 535. However, my 11/85 microfiche shows only the 13 51 1 259 882 part (the AT version of the 887 part) and the 13 51 1 259 535 part as being available, with the former applied to European models and the latter applied to US models.

Two things become apparent from this. First is that the earlier USA market cars carried the same injection pump as did their European contemporaries. To support this, a local 1972 USA market tii carries a pump labeled PL04-124.01 B-1 and 92 004 011 and Chris Achleithner tells me that the 92 004 Oil pump is the prevalent version in Bavaria. Second, I conclude that the pump shown currently as the European pump is functionally the same as the early USA pump with the V7 cam while the “current” USA pump (259 535) is in fact the later USA version. According to Kugelfischer literature, the 124.01 At and A2 pumps differed from later pumps insofar as a running change occurred in the throttle body which made those pumps incompatible with the later throttle bodies due to alterations in the cam which complement changes to the throttle. pump with the V6 cam. My 11/73 microfiche for the 2000tii agrees with the 1976 2002 book. I further suggest that although the above information on pump designation vas obtained from Kugelfischer publications and shows that the various pump had differing designations at Kugelfischer, BMW AG considered all the 124.01 pumps to be functionally identical except the 1974.

I have included as figures a copy of a graph by Dave Redszus which vas published in a previous tii Register Newsletter. In it, Dave shows fuel delivery profiles for the V6 and V7 pump cams. The positions P1, P2, P3, and P4 correspond to the idle, low partial throttle, high partial throttle, and full throttle pin settings at the enrichment lever on the engine-side of the pump. The V6 cam vas used on the 1974 models while the V7 cam vas used on earlier cars. Recall that the 1974 USA cars had to meet more stringent exhaust gas emission standards and that most of the emission tests were done at idle and under part throttle acceleration. This probably explains why the V6 cam is leaner than the V7 cam at low speeds. As discussed above, it appears that all the tii pumps except the 1974 USA pump used the V7 fuel profile while the 1974 USA pump used the Y6 cam.

Using a Kugelfisher pump in racing applications

The attached PDF documentation below is of historical nature. It was provided to us in the late 1980s by Shafer Einspritztechnik in Germany. They built pumps for racing applications.

The documentation attached to this page discusses how their pump would be installed and configured for the well known Schnitzer and A4 Alpina type slide throttle injection systems of the 70s.

Click to download PDF document

Enjoy this artifact. We are sure there are not many copies left originally!

Kugelfischer Injection System Maintenance

There exists, even among experienced mechanics, the belief that the Kugelfischer pump does not require any maintenance whatsoever. That is wrong—pure shade tree mythology. The pump does require some periodic maintenance, very little, but some.

Injection system maintenance falls into three categories: short term, medium term, and long term.

Long term maintenance is essentially a pump rebuild.

Short term maintenance is maintenance which should be performed approximately every 2500-300 miles. It is usually best done in conjunction with an engine oil and filter change.

Warm up sensor operation: A check to be sure that the warm-up sensor is functioning correctly consists of inspecting the fuel enrichment mechanism and the auxiliary air operation.

Fuel enrichment: With the engine cold, note the position of the enrichment screw. The distance of the screw from its stop should be approximately 3 mm. The exact distance will vary with ambient temperature. Start and warm the engine to operating temperature. The enrichment screw should bottom against its stop and the hat should not touch the enrichment lever. Move the enrichment lever by hand. It should move freely and return quickly to its stop. If it does not operate freely, excess enrichment will be experienced each time the engine is started and the excessively rich fuel mixture will cause a dilution of engine oil (bad for engine bearings) as well as run poorly. If the lever is binding, the cause is probably corrosion and the pump will require an over haul.

Auxiliary air: Again with the engine cold. check the position of the auxiliaru air piston in the warm-up sensor (located under the hat on the threaded rod). The piston top should be approximately flush with the collar of the warm up sensor. Its exact position will vary with ambient temperature. Warm up the engine to operating temperature. More the position of the auxiliary air piston. It should extend approximately 9-10 mm above the collar nut. If it does not, the engine will continue to receive un-metered auxiliary air and will run excessively lean. Visually check the condition of the piston for evidence of rust or oil-based crud which may impede movement or air flow. While the piston is extended, spray it with a carbon cleaner or choke cleaner to remove the buildup.

If the piston does not extend a full 9-10 mm or if rust is visible, spray a little penetrating oil to break up the rust. If the piston does not free up after chemical clean-up, the warm up sensor must be replaced or rebuilt.

Median term maintenance is maintenance which should be performed approximately every 15,000 to 20,000 miles. It is usually best done in conjunction with a spark plug change. Water hoses: Check hose clamps for tightness and hoses for cracks or leaks. Pull off one water line to the warm up sensor and inspect for evidence of corrosion, scale or crud. If found, refer to coolant maintenance section.

Oil line and return hose: Check the high pressure oil line for oil flow and tightness of fittings. Disconnect oil line to pump and crank engine for 10-15 seconds. A lack of oil flow due to sludge, blockage or a crimped line will soon result in destroyed pump bearings. Check the oil return hose for cracks, leaks and loose hose clamps. If the inside of the oil return hose is dry then oil is not draining nor being replaced by fresh oil and the pump is full of crud, sludge and residues.

Fuel lines: Check all fuel lines at the pump and injectors for condition and tightness. Inspect the brass mesh strainer inside the fuel inlet banjo bolt for rust and crud accumulation. With the engine running (approximately 2500 rpm) put your finger on each nylon high pressure injector fuel line. You should feel a distinct pulse in each line. The lack of a strong pulse is symptomatic of inadequate fuel delivery from the pump or an injector failure.

Fuel pump drive belt: Remove the upper plastic timing cover and inspect the condition of the notched pump drive belt. Any evidence of excessive wear in the belt (frayed, missing notches, broken threads) requires prompt replacement. Carry a spare belt in the car, BMW Part Number 13 52 1 259 269.

Fluid leaks: Check for evidence of fluid leaks, water, oil or fuel. Correct as necessary.

Linkage wear: A mechanical linkage system will wear in several places and should be inspected to obtain maximum performance.

Ball joints: Check all ball and socket joints for looseness and proper length. Replace any sloppy ball joint rod ends. Clean and grease all ball joints.

Nylon ball cup: Check the condition of the nylon ball cup (on warm-up sensor at bottom of intermediate shaft). Replace worn or missing cups; clean and grease good ones.

Throttle shaft: Check the movement of the throttle shaft at the throttle body. A worn shaft with excess movement prevents proper air /fuel synchronization. Lubricate the shaft inside and outside of the throttle body.

Eccentric cam follower A worn follower (found under the cover plate of the throttle body) will prevent full opening of the throttle plate (butterfly). Grease all friction areas. The key to linkage maintenance is to be aware that mechanical parts in friction contact do wear when dirty, rusty or improperly lubricated. The system is superb when new but neglect will cost you a reduction in performance.

Cooling System Maintenance

A major cause of warm-up sensor failure is corrosion due to improper cooling system maintenance. The warm-up sensor housing, which is heated by coolant, has coolant passages of steel and aluminum. Although aluminum corrodes more quickly than steel, the steel is much thinner and will rust from the inside out causing a coolant leak.

A second cause of warm-up sensor failure is a buildup of scale deposits on the thermostat cylinder This reduces heat transfer to the paraffin expansion element and produces a very slow sensor response. If coolant passages become plugged with scale, corrosion products and silica gel (and sometimes silicone sealant), flow may be blocked completely, rendering the warm-up sensor inoperative.

Clean the entire cooling system (which includes the head, block, pump, heater core and hoses, not just the radiator) thoroughly and completely. A pressure back flush will remove only loose particles and will not remove scale corrosion, sludge or silica gel; neither will any 20 minute treatment. Use Penray’s Cool Prep * 1232 or Nalco’s Nalprep 2001.

Use a good brand of antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled or softened water. Never use less than 40% or more than 60% antifreeze. Low concentrations have almost no corrosion or boil-over protection. High concentrations cause dissolved particulate dropout with increased risk of water pump failure. Check coolant anti-corrosion property often as well as boil-over and freeze protection levels.

Last update: 2007-08-18 10:33

Original article by: Dave Redszus, Precision Automotive Research